Screen Printing Explained: Plastisol vs Water-Based Inks & When to Use Them

Screen printing is the oldest and still the most cost-effective way to decorate apparel at volume — and the most durable. But “screen printing” hides a real choice of inks that change the feel, look and price of your finished garment. Here is what to know.

How screen printing works

Ink is pushed through a fine mesh stencil — one screen per colour — onto the garment, then cured with heat. Because each colour needs its own screen and setup, screen printing has an up-front cost that is spread across the run. That is why it is unbeatable at volume and expensive for one-offs.

Plastisol ink — bold and durable

Plastisol is a plastic-based ink that sits on top of the fabric. It is ultra-opaque (brilliant on dark garments), vivid and extremely durable, surviving many dozens of washes. The trade-off is a slight surface feel and less breathability across large solid prints.

Water-based & discharge — soft and vintage

Water-based inks soak into the fabric rather than sitting on it, giving a soft, almost print-free hand-feel and a lovely vintage finish. Discharge printing goes further, removing the garment dye and replacing it with new colour for the softest result on dark cotton. Both are favoured for premium, broken-in aesthetics and pair well with organic fabrics.

When screen printing wins

• Larger runs of one design — the per-unit cost drops sharply at volume.
• Bold, limited-colour graphics — logos, text and simple artwork.
• Maximum durability — prints that must survive heavy, repeated washing.

When to choose something else

Because each colour adds a screen and setup, screen printing is costly for photographic, gradient or many-colour artwork, and for small quantities. For those, DTF (full colour, no minimum) or — for all-over polyester designs — sublimation are better tools.

Screen printing rewards commitment: few colours, high volume, maximum durability. Match the method to the run, not just the design.

Velocity Wear offers plastisol, water-based and discharge screen printing — matched to your fabric, design and quantity — alongside DTF, embroidery and sublimation. Send your artwork and quantity for a free quote.